Phamish – the name says it all really, and in many ways….
Obviously it is a humorous play on words – hinting at the fact that this is a modern take on Vietnamese food.
But perhaps more importantly, if you are ‘famished’, you are more than likely too tired to cook, crave multiple tasty dishes, and would be happy to endure whichever system efficiently provides relief from this predicament. I say endure, as endurance is something you will come understand as soon manage to get a seat.
More on that later…
Phamish first opened it’s doors in 2002 in a custom-built space just down the hill from the ever popular Bills Cafe and Onde Bistro. It quickly found friends – the sort of people who eat out a lot, but spend their pennies wisely. At the time, I was one of this happy brigade, and often went there for a quick meal before a movie up the road on Oxford St.
I was never disappointed.
The place looked slick and ran like clockwork. The thick concrete walls punctured with frameless openings seemed to give it a certain balmy authenticity. Likewise, the inventory of portions remaining being scratched off in real time as you ordered, made you feel lucky to have got one. It also reinforced that the place was being run by seasoned professionals, confident in what they make and how much of it they will sell.
This was not a eatery waiting for customers, it was customers waiting for a table. There was a nervousness amongst the patrons as they jostled from their cars to the door. Once seated though, a sense of intimacy (afforded by soft lighting and natural ventilation) prevailed despite the squashed table plan. With its recent relocation to the forecourt of the Darlinghurst’s Republic 2, have things changed for the worse? No, but perhaps, maybe yes.
Nothing except the decor and context has really changed. The owners tell me they now have more seats (and bigger cool rooms, a larger kitchen, and better rear access – hence the move), yet the queue to get in is just as long. Phamish still doesn’t take bookings.
The food is still of a high standard. Old favourites like kaffir lime prawns with snow peas do not disappoint. The flavours subtle, the prawns fresh and lightly cooked, and the snow peas crisp. The sesame lamb fillets are superbly tender, laking only the same textural counterpoint peas give to prawns. A special of soft shell crab crumbed and fried is delicious and almost nutty, but leaves a slightly greasy after taste.
The entrees were even better. The little spring rolls surprise in that they are moist inside and out. The blue swimmer crab dumplings arrive crispy – looking like something out of a tired bain marie, but also surprise with their beautifully steamed contents. The duck and prawn pancakes in comparison look and feel enormous. They reek of freshness and flavour, and share none of the oiliness often associated with Vietnamese pancakes.
So what has changed that I don’t like? Well I’m sure I won’t be the only one to complain about the new tripod chairs. They look so sweet until you need to use one. Let’s just say they must be a dream to stack away at the end of the night, and their lack of comfort probably saved you at least 5 minutes waiting for a table.
I am a big fan of this forecourt – it is especially good for kids to run around in while you finish your desert and wine. However, I think it is a little sad that Phamish now looks like the white-Sydney-box we have been trying to crawl out of for about 10 years.
It’s quite a contrast to its upstart neighbour – Christine Manfield’s Universal. The neon lights here are more ironic. Their customers share the same nervous look, only on the relatively quiet night I was there, I think it was for fear of not being noticed as they spent their hard-earned so tastefully. In the time I wait between ordering and receiving our first entree at Phamish, a customer at Universal may have just finished reading their menu. To be fair though, they may take home with them much more than just food…
You see, the only thing I really don’t like about places like Phamish is what I call the ‘empathy factor’.
I mean I really don’t mind waiting ages for a table. I don’t even mind lining up at a counter to order everything at once (and pay for it at the same time). I know that all will come out as it should, and if not, help will be at hand to make amends. It’s just that I like these guys, but never really get a chance to know them. They are just too busy. And even though the service is fine, I’m not sure why as I have no sense of anybody being in charge. There are no personalities here, and at a place this good, there should be.
Details
Shop 109/50 Burton St, Darlinghurst (enter from Forbes St)
Tel 02 9357 2688
From 6pm Tues-Sat, and 5.30pm Sundays
No bookings taken
BYO wine
Cards accepted
Price: Around $60 for 2
Tip: Get there early for a seat and before the daily specials run out
Written by John Molloy
